Phaith Montoya
The end of summer marks the beginning of New York Fashion Week. On September 6 top designers from around the globe will debut their collections along runways throughout New York City.
In recent years more designers have focused on inclusivity and diverse bodies. Studies like one from Credence Research report that more than 67% of women in the United States wear a size 14 or above. It is said that the clothing market is a $288 industry for plus-sized women. And that figure is said to increase by $500 billion within the next decade.
Last year, during fashion week in September, 2023 designers made an effort to include plus size and mid-size models. According to a report in Vogue Business there were more plus-size and mid-size models participating in New York, London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks. In fact they cite that designers used size inclusive casting for more than 230 shows and 8,800 looks.
However Vogue Business also reports that these numbers have decreased. Several brands who have made an effort to be more size inclusive have returned to mostly using models who are not plus or mid-sized.
For Phaith Montoya, a plus size fashion content creator with a platform that reaches millions across TikTok, Instagram and YouTube, the lack of representation is harrowing. “Although I am excited to attend 2024 Fashion Week, it’s hard not to think about how most of these designs won’t fit bodies like mine,” says Montoya. “All we want is to see ourselves on the runway and in the stores. History has shown that the chances of me seeing a woman like me on the runway are slim to none.”
In 2016, Montoya was in high school when Leslie Jones announced her struggle to get designers to dress her for the Ghostbusters reboot premiere. “It’s so funny how there are no designers wanting to help me with a premiere dress for a movie,” Jones wrote on Twitter at the time. The movie and its premiere were important for Jones who had her first starring role in a high-profile film.
Christian Siriano came forward and made her a fabulously elegant cherry red, off-the-shoulder dress with a sultry slit. “It shouldn’t be exceptional to work with brilliant people just because they’re not sample size,” wrote Siriano on Twitter.
“When I saw that Christian Siriano came to Leslie Jones’ rescue, I viewed that as a very public showing of support,” says Montoya. “I’m a big fan of his designs and a lot of that is because of what he did for her.” Siriano stepping up gave Montoya something to aspire to. “It gave me hope that someday I could wear a dress made by him. And it made me feel hopeful others would eventually do the same,” she says. “I felt so seen.”
Through her content Montoya hopes to carry her timely message for change. She is striving for a more inclusive world which offers plus sized women a platform to thrive and attain representation. “There are not many plus size people like me [represented on the runway]. Sadly, this has been the reality I have lived with since I picked up my first magazine,” says Montoya. “It’s the reality millions of women everywhere face every day. Most women feel that the fashion industry doesn’t understand them.”
Jeryl Brunner: Are there designers who are devoted to taking a more inclusive lane?
Phaith Montoya: RTW has really taken the lead in plus size clothing and some of it is absolutely fantastic. And in the past couple of years a handful of high fashion designers that show on the runway have gotten it right. Christian Siriano came to Jones’ rescue and Prabal Gurung has always designed for up to a size 22. But few other high-end designers seem to have valued the plus-size customer, if they see us at all. I really do want to help change that.
Brunner: You have mentioned that you were particularly drawn to a quote from Henning founder Lauren Chan. She told the New York Times that “plus-size women have never been told they could stay that way and invest in themselves as they are.” Why do her words resonate with you so deeply?
Montoya: I am so grateful to those designers who do see us and especially those who ask me to wear their clothes. Nothing brings me more joy knowing that I can confidently share those beautiful pieces with other women my size. I love that they design with plus size girls in mind. It means everything to my supporters.
I post authentic content that my supporters will relate to. I call them supporters not followers because they do support me and my journey as much as I do theirs. My content is all about people feeling good in the body they are in. No matter what. Through my own journey I enforce that plus size women deserve space in this world. The bigger our army, the bigger the change. I want us to be inspired to be ourselves no matter the size you are.
Brunner: How are you celebrating fashion week this year?
Montoya: I plan to celebrate the designers who are making room for plus size and design for women who look like me. You will see their clothes on my plus size body this New York Fashion Week. I know that change takes time, so even if I am one of the few plus size women in the room, I hope that our presence will inspire other designers.
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